Getting Into Hot Water

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I recently had a discussion with another felt maker regarding arrangements for a workshop I’ll be running soon. She commented that there was no hot water, but we could boil a kettle.

When I commented that I wouldn’t need hot water she was surprised. That led to a discussion about when I use hot water in my felt making process.

Here is the way I think about it:

If you have ever shrunk a woolen garment in a hot water wash, you’ll understand the immediate effect of shrinkage on wool.

When we are felting using a fine wool like Merino (I’m talking about 18 – 22 micron) we don’t want the wool to shrink too quickly by adding hot water after we lay out the roving.

To wet down my wool, I sprinkle room temperature water with a little soap (I use shampoo) over the layout. The shampoo helps to break down the water resistance and aids penetration of the water into the fibre. I use my hands and a kitchen sponge to push the air out between the layers and to ensure that the water has penetrated right through the whole layout.

 

Adding water and then mopping up excess with kitchen sponge

Undoubtedly using room temperature water takes longer to penetrate the fibre than hot water – BUT – and it is a big BUT. If the wool starts to shrink right at the beginning it is much harder to develop a connection between inclusions and wool.

Whether your inclusions on the surface of your layout are silk, pre-felt, yarn or other plant fibres or textiles, the fine strands of wool need to penetrate and hold the inclusion in place. If you have started the shrinking process by using hot water the fine strands of wool are less likely to penetrate. Your inclusions will be less secure or may not stick at all.

Inclusions on wet roving waiting to be felted

This is not to say I don’t use hot water ever – I do use it, but mainly for fulling.

When the wool is felted and all the inclusions are firmly in place, I will start the fulling process by gently rolling the wool on itself. If I reach a point where shrinkage seems to have stopped, I will rest the wool and then recommence rolling after I have dipped the wool in hot water.

Rolling on itself after dipping in hot water

I’ll continue in this manner until I have achieved the shrinkage I want.

The other time I use hot water is if I am laying out a really large and thick article from a coarse wool such as Bergshaf. I will use hot water in my layout as the coarse breeds can be extremely water resistant and hot water is the most efficient and effective method of ensuring that the wool is properly wet through all layers.

I am aware that everyone has their own art practice and what suits me may not work for others. I live in a hot climate where my winter temperature is in the low 20’s. Perhaps if I lived in the Northern Hemisphere, I would use hot water differently.  This post is just about my process and the theory I have applied for where I live.

I’d love to hear about your felt making process – what do you use?

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4 Comments. Leave new

  • I really like your explanation, spot on.

    Reply
  • Thanks for your detailed explanation. New felter and sometimes have trouble with fibres, your explanation makes so much sense to me now.

    Reply
    • Kate Niblett
      May 16, 2025 2:06 PM

      Thank you Jan. I have an online course for new felt makers “Your First Felt Project – A Beginners Guide to Wet Felt Making” which might be of interest to you. You can check it out through my website. I am also in the process of publishing it as a book – available soon.

      Kind Regards
      Kate

      Reply

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About the Author

Kate Niblett

Kate Niblett

 Felt Making Teacher and Fibre Artist

Living in a small rural town there were not many folk to share my passion for felting and textile art – in fact non-one! As a felt making teacher and fibre artist I am creating an international community who share my passion and willingness to share ideas, techniques, hints and tips to launch our creativity.